Bolivia and Titicaca

Just got back to Urubamba after quite a few days away. Alot has happened and ill do my best to remember it all.

We started off Friday around 6pm to leave for Cusco, having our bus to Puno leaving at 9pm. Having missed the last collectivo (shared taxi), we were forced to take the cheaper bus. Cheaper for obvious reasons. Takes twice as long, smells constantly of fart, petrol, sweat and is a bumpy, slow and just plain painful ride. Me and the other volunteer sat next to a highly crazy religious woman who worked at the meat market and smelled like it too. When we finally arrived in Cusco, all the excitement to be on our way was almost completely gone. Nevertheless, we found dinner in town and made our bus to puno with comfortable seats. Took about 8 hours, whereafter we jumped on a bus to Copacabana, the small village on lake titicaca in bolivia where Isla del sol is. This bus ride included crossing the border to bolivia, and for the other volunteer with us, an american, this was no easy task realizing she had to pay a 135 dollar visa. For us danes, we simpy walked across, filled out the forms and got our stamp. Turning our eyes the other way, the american opted towards making a deal with the bus drivers (since she didnt have 135 dollars handy) and was more or less smuggled across the border. She was told the same bus drivers would be there to pick us up, and the same procedure would go for the return ticket. The bus took 3 hours, and upon arrival we almost immediately jumped on a 2 hour boat to Isla del Sol, the island that the Inkas believed to be the origin of their god. We climbed to the top of the island and settled in, after much walking around and haggling after realizing there was no atm present and we had to be sparesome with our wallets. We found a cheap place with a stunning view over the lake and the snowy mountains in the background. Sat outside watching the approaching thunderstorm with a cold beer, thinking about how incredible the place was. Having a lake so massive it seems more like an ocean 4000 meters up in the mountains is hard to grasp.

We woke up early and set off on a hike across the island (about 15km). We had briefly met some brazilians the night before who joined us. It took us a good 3 and a half hours to get across the island, but the view was worth it all. Walking past inka ruins and constantly having this amazing view out over Lake Titicaca took the mind of being tired. We took a boat back to mainland and Copacabana around 1:30pm and went on the hunt for an atm as we were literally completely broke at that point. To our greatest surprise, there was only one bank in town, that only opened on tuesdays. We refused to believe it for a while as it really just seemed straight out stupid considering the amount of backpackers and tourists in town. Walking around broke with no bank forced us to find a hostel that took card, which was very few and ended up being a little more expensive than expected, although 30 dollars a night for a triple room seems like nothing to the western world. The owner of the hotel Copula, a german, was extremely generous and understanding and gave us a good price. The place was also absolutely amazing with a view over the lake and hammocks providing the perfect place for me to relax with a view while the girls looked around in shops. We did eventually find a place that offered a cash advance for a huge personal commision, but desperate and moneyless in a foreign country, we were forced to accept. That night, of all nights, happened to be carnival in bolivia and after dinner we made our way to the plaza just to look around. There were at least 5 bands playing and everywhere people were dressed in the most amazing traditional costumes. The moral code seemed to be no less than drink till you fall, and so they did. We were pulled in by locals, given free beer, given their costumes, the other volunteer was proposed to and introduced to the mother in law, father in law and the rest of the family (the man proposing was just sober enough to remain on his feet). We danced around in the most absurd conditions but constantly just laughing and having a good time. During my two years at Roskilde Festival I would say I have seen my share of drunk people, but this was just even more loco (for you, petersen). Watching them literally tip over and zig zag their way home was a lot of fun. The next morning the girls went shopping and I stayed in the hammock with some music, and we had our bus home to catch in the afternoon. Leaving at 6, it left at half past (such is peruvian time as we have come to learn). With a bus to catch at 9 in puno to cusco, we were getting nervous, although bolivia is one hour ahead. Immigrations took a while, and our american friend was terrified to see her bus drivers from last time were not there. While the rest of us got in line to legally leave Bolivia and enter Peru again, with an extended visa, she strolled past without any problems but with her heart beating quite fast. Once again, we turned our blind side to the matter, of course caring about her but not wanting to get involved in anything. The bus on the other side was a dump. It rolled, smoking like a camp fire, towards Puno at an alarmingly slow pace. Several times the engine stopped, and finally, 10 km from Puno, it had could go no more. Already half an hour late for our next bus that we HAD to make because we had only gotten monday off from the school, we were thrown into a taxi, told to leave the taxi, jumped on another bus and got to Puno at 10 and even in peruvian time, the bus had left. Being given a promise of a reimbursed ticket in the morning, we found a hostel in town, got up early and went back to the terminal. We managed to get in touch with the school to let them know we wouldnt make it today. As expected, no one took blame the next morning and we fought for about an hour without luck, and had to pay for another ticket home as we had no other option. Being able to speak spanish in day to day situations as we can now is very different from arguing, and we had to give up eventually. We finally made it to Cusco at 4 in the afternoon and got home to Urubamba just now, at around 7. The school was very understanding of the situation, luckily, but we now only have 3 days of school before leaving for Mancora for some more vacation. At the moment we are getting very little work done, and seem to have a lot of vacation, but who are we to complain. Suzy, founder of Kiya Survivors, is currently here and having to see her, more spanish lessons and going to the rainbow house in 3 days is going to be very hectic.

Will write more soon,
Alex